Hyperpigmentation otherwise known as HP in the aesthetic world is one of the number one contributors to uneven skin tone. While having a few freckles in our youth can be cute,over time it can become a nuisance and for some, can cause self esteem issues. With so many products on the market claiming to be the "Holy Grail" of correcting discoloration, not all reach the dermal junction level where cause and change occur. First we have to look at just how long it takes for sun damage to visibly be seen. From years of sun activites in our youth well into adulthood not to mention sunburns or forgetting SPF. These layers of sun damage begin to build up and eventually they make their way to the surface of the skin. The best way to see the underlying sun damage is to have your skin anaylized through a Wood's lamp by your aesthetician. The UV light from the lamp shows sun damage that has not yet surfaced. This aids the practitioner in their choice of products and treatments to best target the clients skin care concerns and needs.
Hyperpigmentation is best treated with monthly facials to aid in exfoliating the dead skin cells in order to bring forward the damage and treat the underlying layers of skin properly. I always recommend clients to use a topical stable form of Vitamin C for daytime (helps with sun damage and builds collagen), and if tolerated a Retinoid cream for nighttime under your moisturizer. Keep in mind Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and they have a tiny molecular structure so they do penetrate more deeply and can have an initial drying effect. It's best to start with a lower % and work your way up depending on tolerance. Retinoids are not only wonderful for HP but they also help smooth textured skin, treat fine lines, wrinkles and aid in better product penetration overall for all of your skin care products.
AHA's (alpha hydroxy acids) are water soluble while BHA (beta hydroxy acid) is oil soluble and can penetrate the oil glands of the skin. AHA's include acids of glycolic (sugar cane), lactic (tomato/milk), citric (vit c), tartaric (grapes), mandelic (almonds), and malic (apples). An example of a BHA is Salicylic acid (Willow Bark/Aspirin) aids greatly with acne but is also a great prep for degreasing the skin and brightening the complexion. For more oily skin BHA's work very well dryer skin types will want to use a BHA far less.
Aside from facials and topical products there are many treatments to aid in anti-aging and sun damage that your practitioner may want to use in the treatment room. Monthly dermaplane treatment or Microdermabrasion, microchanneling/needling, lasers (IPL, Fraxel) are all options. I always warn clients however on lasers no longer being my first choice for a treatment option though they work quickly. Over the years I have found laser treatments to not only be harsh with far more down time but I find they actually AGE us more rapidly.
HP treatments done properly take time and patience. A good aesthetician will know how to effectively formulate the best targeted treatment options with a long-term goal in mind for your very best outcome. As always it is vital to wear an SPF factor of 30 every single day, even on overcast ones. Did you know that the blue light from our computer screens and phones are also aiding in our aging and pigmentation? That being said Amazon sells full screen blue light protection that goes right over your computer screen. I know many use the blue light glasses but unfortunatley they don't cover your entire face so a full size is recommended. Talk to me if you struggle with any form of pigmentation. My next blog will address "Melasma" which is an entire different ballpark than HP as it is hormonal driven.
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